Mortadella e Champagne

30 December 2015 - ore 12:45 | Alessandro Roscioli
Maybe it was passion, or curiosity, or simply the sign of the times, but my “Pizzicheria” has slowly become a wine and food shop. Prosciutti, salami, culatelli, but then also Krug, Bollinger and Dom Perignon, democratically.
Almost by chance I put aside oysters and lemon, I try to match “princes” and “farmers”.
Oily and abundant, made with the the remaining parts of pork’s head, I find myself with a “coppa di testa” in my hands. And a bottle of an extreme champagne such as Salon: the bubbles and the acidity skim the fat off the mouth, making it perfectly clean. All that’s left is the intense taste of the coppa and the persistency of the Liqueur of the Champagne.
For the Strolghino, a delicate culatello salame, I look for an elegan and mineral champagne like Cuvée Winston Churchill by Pol Roger, or simply a Gosset – Brabant. As for a sweet salame such as Sant’Angelo, obtained from the black porks of Nebrodi, I try to pair it with a Demi-Sec like André Beaufort ’89, and the two half sweetnesses perfectly compensate each other. For the Varzi, a salame that is not very fat, but juicy, a Rosè Saignée looks like the most suitable answer.
I think that peculiar champagne and boiséè like Selosse Substance (made with the Solera method), get along with the fumée prosciutto d’Osvaldo di Cormond or the Speck of Pretzhof. Then, while I was spreading the sweet and oily Ciauscolo on the bread, I tried to drink with it a rich and fruity Rosé such as the Larmandier-Bernier.
And mortadella? oily but not abundant, simple and delicate, omnipresent but not banal, I see it as the courtesan of cured meats. Able to pair every champagne, never making a fool of itself, it is the salami the most of all reminds me of the origins of my small shop. Maybe it is not a coincidence that in France, when they were trying to trap bubbles inside a bottle, along the alleys of Paris they talked about revolution.
Italian dialect, it refers to a shop of cured meats (editor’s note)
Alessandro Roscioli

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